Planning Sun Position at a Photo Spot: Light Instead of Luck

Route direction plus sun azimuth gives you the time window in which a spot works. The maths, the rules of thumb and the seasonal effect at a glance.

Traintrack editorial teamPublished: 19 August 2026Updated: August 202612 min read

Key takeaways

  • Two angles are enough: azimuth tells you which compass direction the sun comes from, elevation tells you how high it stands – together they describe every lighting scenario.
  • Solar noon isn't 12 o'clock: in Germany, true noon falls noticeably later than the clock suggests, depending on longitude and daylight saving time.
  • The season turns the spot around: in summer the sun rises in the north-east, in winter in the south-east – the same location therefore works at completely different times.
  • Route direction is the second ingredient: only the combination of track alignment and sun azimuth tells you whether the front of a train sits in the light.
  • Flat light beats bright light: a low sun models vehicles nicely, a high sun creates hard shadows under the bodywork.
Contents
  1. 1.Planning sun position: the short answer
  2. 2.Why 12 o’clock isn’t noon
  3. 3.The season turns your spot around
  4. 4.Working out sun height yourself
  5. 5.From route direction to time window
  6. 6.When the light won’t cooperate
  7. 7.What you should watch out for
  8. 8.Your own light catalogue
  9. 9.Conclusion

Updated: August 2026 – Two hours’ drive, perfect clouds, and then the sun sits exactly behind the train. If you can plan sun position at a photo spot, you save yourself days like that. This guide explains the maths behind azimuth and elevation, translates it into rules of thumb for railway lines, and shows why the same location works at completely different times of day in winter than in summer.

Light notes for your spots

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Planning sun position: the short answer

You plan the sun position for a photo spot by comparing the direction of the line with the sun’s azimuth at the planned time. If the sun is behind your position and hits the side of the train at an angle, you get directional front light. If it’s behind the train, you’re shooting into the light. Everything else – time of day, season, choice of location – is just optimising that one relationship.

For that you need two numbers. Azimuth describes the sun’s compass direction, measured clockwise from north: 90 degrees is east, 180 degrees south, 270 degrees west. Elevation describes how high the sun stands above the horizon. Azimuth decides which side of the train gets light; elevation decides how hard and how long the shadows are.

4 minshift in true noon per degree of longitude
±23.4°swing in solar declination over the year
2angles that describe every lighting situation

Why 12 o’clock isn’t noon

The most common planning mistake: assuming the sun is in the south at midday. In fact the high point shifts for three reasons.

  • Longitude: Central European Time is based on a reference meridian in the east of the time zone area. The further west you stand, the later the sun reaches its high point – roughly four minutes per degree of longitude. Between the west and east of Germany that adds up to a good half hour.
  • Equation of time: because the Earth’s orbit is an ellipse and its axis is tilted, the “sun clock” runs up to a good quarter of an hour ahead of or behind civil time over the course of the year.
  • Daylight saving time: during daylight saving time a further full hour is added.

In total, the sun’s high point in Germany during daylight saving time typically falls well after 1pm. If you plan your time window by the clock instead of the sun’s position, you’ll regularly be out by an hour to an hour and a half – enough to ruin a shot. Work this out once for your regular spots and note it in your own spot collection on the trainspotter map, and you never have to calculate it again.

The season turns your spot around

The point where the sun rises shifts considerably over the year. Roughly speaking, for Germany:

Period Sunrise approx. Sunset approx. Rough noon height What that means for railway photos
Summer solstice North-east, around 45–55° North-west, around 305–315° 60–66° very early and very late light, harsh and steep at midday
Early/late summer East-north-east West-north-west approx. 50–60° long usable off-peak times, usually too steep at midday
Equinox almost due east almost due west 35–43° ideal for east-west lines, balanced light
Late autumn/early spring East-south-east West-south-west approx. 20–30° flat, well-modelling light all day
Winter solstice South-east, around 125–135° South-west, around 225–235° 11–19° short day, but usable light throughout

These are rough bands for German latitudes, not table values for a specific location. For the exact time at a particular spot, ask a sun position tool – but the rough bands help you decide whether the research is worthwhile in the first place.

The practical consequence is bigger than it sounds: a north-south line gets light on the long sides in the morning and evening in summer, and from above at midday. In the Middle Rhine Valley near Boppard, that’s exactly what decides which side of the Rhine you should stand on that day. An east-west line works almost perfectly around the equinoxes in the morning and evening, but hardly at all at the off-peak times in high summer, because the sun then rises and sets far to the north. If you keep that in mind, you choose spots deliberately for the season – a principle that also runs throughout the guide to railway photography with location scouting.

Winter is underrated

Short days put many people off. Yet in winter the sun is so low all day that it's practically "golden hour" throughout. Instead of two short windows you get one long one – just with less light, and so higher ISO values.

Working out sun height yourself

The sun’s height at noon follows a simple formula: 90 degrees minus latitude plus solar declination. Declination swings over the year between roughly plus and minus 23.4 degrees – positive in the northern summer, zero at the equinoxes, negative in the northern winter. That lets you estimate, for any place and season, how steep the light is at midday.

How high is the sun at your spot?

Enter the approximate latitude of your location and choose the season. The result is the maximum sun height on that day.

Calculated using the formula 90° − latitude + declination. It describes the day's high point, not the situation at a specific time.

What's actually running at the spot

Light is half the battle – the other half is the subject. See what the community is reporting right now in Traintrack, and log your own sightings.

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From route direction to time window

The sun’s position alone doesn’t say anything on its own. It’s only combined with the track alignment that a statement emerges. The process is always the same.

1. Determine the route direction

Read off the map which compass direction the tracks run in at your location. A rough figure such as "north-west to south-east" is enough.

2. Decide which side of the train you want

If you want the front and one long side lit, the sun needs to come from an angle that grazes both – typically obliquely from the front-side.

3. Derive the matching azimuth range

From the route direction and the desired side, you work out which compass direction the sun needs to come from. Note a range, not a single figure.

4. Look up the time using a sun position tool

Only now does the tool come into play: it tells you when, on your date and at your location, that azimuth range is reached.

5. Cross-check the elevation

If the sun is too high at that point, the image goes flat and shadowy. If it's very low, check whether trees or buildings are in the way.

6. Check the horizon on site

A tree line or a noise barrier can effectively make the sun set an hour earlier than calculated. No tool sees that, only you.

The last point is what separates theory from practice. Mathematically, the sun sets at the geometric horizon – in reality it often disappears behind hills, trees and buildings much earlier. In the narrow, wooded Fils valley at the Geislinger Steige, that costs more than an hour of usable light at some standpoints. In Alpine valleys the effect is even more extreme: at the Bahnmuseum Albula in Bergün, the Albula line runs right past the building, but in the basin the sun only stands over the surrounding slopes for part of the day. So note down at every visit when the light actually disappeared at the spot. These experience-based values are worth more than any calculation, and complement the technical questions covered in the guide how to take good photos of trains.

When the light won’t cooperate

Not every spot can be turned into front light. At Cologne Hauptbahnhof, for example, the east side towards the bridge works in the morning and the west side towards Hansaring works in the late afternoon – in between, only changing location helps. There are then three ways out, and all three are legitimate.

Shift the time window if …

  • the spot has good sightlines in principle
  • you're flexible about when you travel
  • a different season will turn the light direction round anyway

Change location if …

  • there's a public path on the other side of the line
  • an overbridge allows a different perspective
  • the composition also works from the other side

Use backlight deliberately if …

  • steam, exhaust or dust become visible in the light
  • wet rails reflect the sun
  • a silhouette works better than a side view

Especially with steam locomotives, backlight is no makeshift, but often the better choice, because it’s what gives the smoke plume its structure – as the guide photographing steam trains shows. You can plan for this via fixed running days, for example at the Bavarian Railway Museum in Nördlingen. And once the light is completely gone, a topic of its own begins: the right camera settings for trainspotting at night turn blue hour into a subject rather than a problem.

What you should watch out for

  • Don’t plan by the clock, plan by the azimuth. The clock time is a time-zone convention; the sun doesn’t care.
  • Factor in the local horizon. Calculated sunrise and sunset times apply to a clear horizon, which barely exists at any spot.
  • Don’t forget the direction of travel. A spot can be perfect for trains going one way and useless for the other direction. On light railways like the APPEVA in the Somme valley, which climbs a ramp from the valley up to the plateau, the lit side even changes several times on the same run.
  • Clouds aren’t a write-off. Light cloud cover acts like a giant diffuser and saves spots that don’t work in harsh midday light.
  • Think about reflections. Bright vehicle flanks in low sun easily blow out. A stop less exposure is often the safer choice.
  • Plan focal length and standing distance too. How strongly the light angle reads also depends on how obliquely you stand to the train – see the rundown of which focal length is best for railway photography.

Your own light catalogue

The biggest efficiency gain doesn’t come from a better tool, but from documentation. If you note three lines after every visit – date, time, when the light arrived and when it left – you’ll have a personal light catalogue after one season. It beats any general rule, because it contains the trees, buildings and sightlines of your specific location.

Combine that with your sighting history: once you know which services run when at a spot and when the light suits it there, two separate pieces of information become one plannable time window. The guide to train photos and railway photography shows how to keep both properly recorded, and for choosing locations at major hubs the overview of the best stations for trainspotting helps.

Conclusion

Light planning isn’t an art, it’s geometry with two angles. If you know which way your line runs, where the sun is at the time in question and how high it stands, you know the outcome before you set off. The rest is experience with the specific place: where the tree line blocks the evening sun, where the noise barrier casts a shadow onto the track. No tool delivers those details – they emerge once you write them down.

Bottom line

Route direction plus sun azimuth gives you the time window; elevation decides the image quality within it. Work out the noon height roughly in your head, get the exact time from a sun position tool, and then note down what actually happened at the spot.

Spots, light and sightings in one place

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Summary

  • Light planning comes down to three questions: which way does the line run, where is the sun, and how high does it stand.
  • The sun's height at noon can be calculated directly from latitude and solar declination.
  • In winter the sun is low and the window is short – but the light stays usable all day long.
  • Note down the light direction once per spot and you save yourself the calculation on every future visit.

Frequently asked questions

How do I plan the sun position for a photo spot?

You need three pieces of information: the direction the line runs in, the sun's azimuth at the planned time, and the sun's elevation. If the sun is behind the photographer and hits the side of the train at an angle, the spot works. If it's behind the train, you get backlight. You can read the route direction off any map, and sun position tools give you the azimuth for a given place and date.

What do azimuth and elevation mean?

Azimuth is the sun's compass direction, measured clockwise from north: 0 degrees is north, 90 degrees east, 180 degrees south, 270 degrees west. Elevation is the angle above the horizon, so 0 degrees at sunrise and sunset and at its maximum at true noon. Together the two values describe the sun's position unambiguously.

Is the sun in the south at 12 o'clock?

No, almost never in Germany. The clock time follows the time zone, the sun's position follows longitude. For every degree west of the time zone's reference meridian, true noon shifts back by four minutes. On top of that comes the equation of time, with a deviation of up to a good quarter of an hour, and during daylight saving time a further full hour. The high point therefore usually falls in the early afternoon.

How high does the sun stand at noon?

The sun's height at true noon works out as 90 degrees minus latitude plus solar declination. In Germany that means roughly: around 60 to 66 degrees at the summer solstice, about 35 to 43 degrees at the equinoxes, and only around 11 to 19 degrees at the winter solstice – depending on how far north you are.

Why does the same spot work differently in winter?

Because the point where the sun rises and sets shifts by several dozen degrees over the year. In high summer the sun rises well north of due east, in deep winter well south of it. An east-west line therefore gets light on one side of the train in the morning in summer, and hardly any in winter – but in winter the sun stays low all day and so stays usable photographically.

When is the golden hour?

The golden hour is generally taken to be the period when the sun sits just above the horizon, usually up to around ten degrees in height. The light is then warm, soft and strongly directional. How long this window lasts depends on season and latitude: in summer twilight drags on for a long time, in winter the phase is short, but the sun then stays low all day.

Do I need an app, or is mental maths enough?

For rough planning, rules of thumb are enough: sun in the east in the morning, in the south at midday, in the west in the evening – further north in summer, further south in winter. For the exact time at a specific spot, a sun position tool is faster and more reliable, because it automatically accounts for the equation of time, longitude and date.

What do I do if a spot only works in backlight?

There are two options: either you change the time or the side – often there's an equally good spot on the other side of the line. Or you deliberately use the backlight as a creative device, for silhouettes, steam and exhaust plumes or reflections on wet rails, say. Good front light at a spot can't be forced.

TT

Traintrack editorial team

We build the Traintrack app and go spotting ourselves – between main stations, depots and farm tracks. Every guide is based on our own experience and is updated regularly.

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